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Toys
Kittens are
naturally playful and will enjoy a few simple toys. Be sure there is
nothing that your kitten may accidentally swallow.
Toilet training
Kittens learn from
their mothers to bury their faeces. This is why your new kitten seems to
take so readily to the litter tray. The scratching-burying action is
stimulated by the odour of the cat”¦s faeces and will take place even in the
absence of suitable loose material. If litter is not available, cats may
use pot plants, garden beds or sand pits, so these areas should be kept
covered and protected.
You may decide
that you would prefer your cat to attend to his toilet outside. However,
for a new kitten, it is certainly advisable to have a litter tray available
inside, at least for the first couple of months. This should be in quiet
but accessible place away from
the eating and sleeping area. The litter must be cleaned daily, as cats are
fastidious and may refuse to use a stale tray.
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Grooming
Cats spend a
great deal of time grooming. This achieves several results:
 The flattened
fur acts as effective insulation;
Saliva on the
coat cools the cat as it evaporates. This helps to compensate for a lack of
sweat glands in the skin;
Licking
stimulates glands at the base of the hairs which act to waterproof the
coat.
All cats,
particularly long-haired breeds, should become accustomed to being gently
combed and brushed as kittens. Cat brushes are available from your vet or
pet shop and it is important that you learn how to prevent tangles if you
own a long-haired breed such as a Persian.
Your first
Veterinary visit
If your kitten
has not been vaccinated, you should visit your veterinarian with your
kitten as soon as possible. Otherwise, make an appointment for the time you
kitten”¦s next vaccination is due. Your veterinarian will vaccinate your
kitten against the cat flu and enteritis, and discuss worming, flea and
tick control, diet and desexing, as well as answering any other questions
you may have. In general, kittens need to be vaccinated two or three times
before 14 weeks of age and then once a year for life.
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Vaccination
Cats are susceptible
to a range of viral diseases that can be fatal in severe cases. Viruses are
usually spread by close contact between cats, in much the same way as colds
and flu are spread between people. Antibiotics have no effect against
viruses, so treatment usually consists of attempts to alleviate symptoms
and support the animal until recovery occurs. Fortunately, safe, effective
vaccines are available to protect cats against cat flu and feline
enteritis.
Cat flu
Many organisms
may be involved with this illness, but two viruses in particular seem to
cause the most concern. An affected cat appears to have a severe cold and
may have ulcers on the surface of the eye or in the mouth. Food intake is
depressed, as cats rely on their sense of smell to help stimulate appetite.
Young kittens are often the most severely affected and can die unless
intensive nursing is available. Some recovered cats become persistent virus
shedders and act as a source of infection for other cats, while some cats
never fully recover and become chronic flu sufferers.
Kittens need a series of vaccinations to help protect them
against cat flu, while adult cats require annual boosters. Unfortunately,
protection is sometimes not 100% complete, due to the different types of
organisms involved, but it certainly helps to decrease the severity of the
disease.
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Feline enteritis
This disease
can be fatal, particularly in young kittens, and affected cats show signs
such as lethargy, lack of appetite, vomiting, dehydration and diarrhea. If
a female cat is infected while pregnant, her kittens may show signs of
nervous system damage. This virus can persist for up to a year in the
environment and recovered cats act as virus shedders, as with cat flu.
Again, kittens need a course of vaccinations while adult cats need annual
boosters. (For more details click here)
Worming
Cats need to
be wormed regularly to remove parasitic worms which live in the intestine.
Kittens should be treated for roundworm and hookworm every two weeks until
12weeks of age, using drops, paste or tablets. After this, all cats should
be treated for roundworm, hookworm and tapeworm once every three months.
Drontal®
from Bayer® is a very good dewormer.
This should be taken every 3 ”V 4 months for adult cats. (Click here for more details)
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Fleas and Ticks
These common
external parasites often cause problems during the warmer months and require
a concerted, coordinated effort to control. Usually a combination of
products is required, and your veterinarian can advise you on the most
suitable approach for your situation. Any products used for flea control
must be specifically designed for kittens and all directions and safety
precautions should be followed carefully.
It is important that the flea control program seeks to remove
not only the adult fleas visible on the cat and other pets, but also the
flea larvae and eggs in the environment to prevent re-infestation of your
pet. While there are products which aid in the control of ticks, if you
live in an area where ticks are a problem, your cat should be checked daily
for tick during the summer. If you find a tick, consult your veterinarian for
advice.
Frontline® Top Spot for Cats is one of the
best flea and tick prevention product. Use once a month for fleas and every two weeks for
ticks.
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Bacterial Disease
The main
problem to be aware of is an abscess.
These are common in cats due to fighting and can show up as
swellings or discharging sores anywhere on the body. The cat may also be in
pain, depressed, or off his food. Any small scratch or wound should be
cleaned at home and watched carefully for a few days, and if an abscess
does develop, veterinary attention is required. If the tendency to fight
persists, you may need to keep your cat indoors at night.
Desexing
Cats are
usually more suitable pets if desexed, and are generally healthier. Your
kitten, male or female, can be desexed at six months of age unless you have
a valid reason for wishing to breed.
Discipline
The most
effective way to discipline your kitten is to use a gruff, loud tone of voice
and to keep a water pistol or plant sprayer handy. Both of these deterrents
must be administered at the precise moment the undesirable behaviour
occurs, as your kitten will not understand if you punish him for something
he did half and hour age. Always remember to praise and reward appropriate
behaviour. Chasing or hitting a cat achieves nothing except a frustrated
owner and a scared, unsociable cat.
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Behavioural
Problems
Part of a cat”¦s
charm is his independence and free spirit, which means that owners may feel
quite honoured when the cat choose to sit on their lap and shows obviour
pleasure and affection. This free spirit, however, also means that cats are
less responsive to training than dogs. Even with this difference understood
and accepted, cats can still be trained to display desirable rather than
undesirable behaviour. Remember your cat is not being naughty, he is simply
displaying natural cat behaviour which is not desirable in the given
situation.
Urinating in the house
Your cat
should be checked by your veterinarian to make sure there is no medical
reason for this problem.
This may be a
reaction to stress, such as a new baby or pet in the house, moving to a new
home, or any change in the cat”¦s environment.
It may occur
when a male cat ”„sprays”¦ urine to mark his territory. Desexing at six
months prevents this problem.
Use
disinfectant (which does not contain ammonia) or shampoo to clean the area
then cover with aluminium foil or use a special ”„cat repellent”¦ spray to
discourage the cat from using the area again.
Scratching
furniture
Discourage
this with voice and water spray.
Provide a
scratching post for your cat.
Clipping the
claws has little effect as the cat will sharpen them again very quickly.
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Fouling in the
house
Check with
your veterinarian regarding medical problems.
Check for
stress.
Check the
litter tray:
Is it large
enough, clean, accessible, private?
Is it far enough
away from the feeding and sleeping area?
Perhaps your
cat dislikes a new brand of cat litter?
Chewing plants
Relieve
stress or boredom, if a problem.
Seek
veterinary advice
Holidays with your
cat
When holidays are
approaching, you will need to consider how best to care for your cat during
this time. There are several options available:
1.
Boarding;
2.
Home care;
3.
Travelling with your cat.
Boarding
Ask your
cat-owning friends for recommendations regarding nearby boarding
facilities. When you have compiled a shortlist, you will need to visit each
cattery to check them out yourself. Arrange this with the staff and look
for such things as happy, contented cats, clean cages and litter trays,
filled water bowls, snug sleeping areas and access to exercise areas.
Cats particularly like having a quiet, protected area to hide
and sleep, and being able to jump up and down to different levels.
Reputable boarding catteries will require proof of current vaccination
status so you will need to have your vaccination record card handy. Cats
need to be vaccinated at least three weeks before boarding.
The better boarding catteries are very popular so you will need
to make your booking well in advance of peak holiday times.
Be prepared to leave a contact number and the name of your
veterinarian. You may also want to take your cat”¦s favourite rugs or toys
and you must remember to transport your cat in a secure cage.
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Home care
If you are
only going away for a few days, perhaps a neighbour or friend could come in
and feed your cat. Although your cat will be lonely, at least he will be in
familiar surroundings. You should ensure that your cat still has access to
his safe, secure sleeping area, protected from the elements. Your neighbour
must ensure that fresh water is always available. Leave your cat cage handy
in case your cat needs to be taken to the veterinary clinic, and make sure
you leave a contact telephone number.
Some enterprising individuals offer this as a service for which
you are charged a small fee.
Travelling with
your cat
A sturdy cat
box is essential when transporting your cat either to the veterinary
clinic, the boarding cattary or any time you need to travel by car. The
best ones are solid plastic and wire cages, available from many pet shops
and vet clinics. Cardboard boxes may be sufficient for small kittens, but
adult cats tend to demolish these in no time and they are difficult to keep
clean. The cage should be lined with newspaper and your cat may feel more
comfortable if it is covered with a light cloth.
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Some owners
wish to sedate their cats for the duration of the journey, however this
would need to be discussed with your veterinarian. Unfortunately, some cats
react poorly to sedation and would be much happier left quietly in a
sturdy, covered cat cage. Although cats are less likely to become car sick
than dogs, it does make sense to avoid meals just before travelling. If
covering a long distance, frequent stops for water and newspaper changes
will be required, but do not, under any circumstances, allow your cat out
of the cage or he is likely to become lost.
Once at your destination, it is preferable to keep your cat
indoors with access to a litter tray. If allowed outside, it is quite
likely that he will end up in fights with neighbourhood cats, or will take
off, trying to find his way back to more familiar surroundings.
Lost cats
Unfortunately
cats sometimes get lost. You can help to prevent this by making sure your
cat always wears a collar which has an identifying name and telephone
number, and a council registration tag if this is required. A microchip
implanted under your cat”¦s skin by your vet provides a permanent means of
identification which can be read by a special machine. If your cat is lost,
contact your local, council, SPCA and veterinary clinics, as lost or
injured animals are often brought to these centres. Rabies and Microchiping is not compulsory
in Hong Kong. If you are
planning to take your cat to another country you can contact your local Pet
Travel company for details.
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